How to Sew Linen Like a Pro
👋 Hey, fellow linen lovers!
Today, I'm going to share how to sew with linen to get professional results. You can achieve this with just a home sewing machine setup, just like I do for my handmade clothing business, Charlie Darwin Textiles.
While you could learn all these tricks through trial and error in your sewing practice, I hope this post speeds things up for you by sharing what I've learned over the last three years of sewing with linen. We’ll cover the entire process, from preparing your fabric to cutting it out, choosing the right thread, sewing, and even what to do with leftover fabric scraps.
Pssst... before we dive in, you can catch this entire blog post in video format over on my YouTube channel! 📺👇
Tip 1: Be Mindful of Fabric Opacity
Linen comes in various weights, which affects how see-through it is. If you're buying online, especially, consider how opaque you want your fabric to be. For example, I have a lightweight linen gauze that's 2.8oz per yard and a medium-weight linen that's 5.3oz per yard. The medium-weight undyed linen is completely opaque, even in lighter colors.
Tip 2: Pre-softened Linen
Consider getting pre-softened linen or use a fabric softener, especially for items that will touch your skin. Linen can start off a bit rough since it's made from the flax plant. Over time, linen softens as you wash it, but you can speed up the process by buying pre-softened linen if you're ordering online.
Tip 3: Pre-wash and Dry Your Fabric
Always pre-wash and dry your fabric before using it, especially if you plan to wash the finished item in the future. Wash and dry the fabric the way you'll wash it later. To prevent fraying, I surge the raw edges or use a zigzag stitch, then wash with warm water and no detergent. I dry on medium to low heat until the fabric is about 90% dry to protect the fibers.
Sub-tip: Save the cardboard bolts from fabric stores to re-roll your fabric after washing. This keeps it organized if you're not using it immediately.
Tip 4: Iron with Lots of Steam
After pre-washing, iron your fabric flat using tons of steam. I use my iron on the hottest setting and constantly press the steam button. My iron stays on for 30 minutes without timing out, which is super handy. Keep an old water bottle nearby to refill the iron easily.
Tip 5: Follow the Warp, Weft, and Bias
When cutting your fabric, pay attention to the direction of the weave. The selvage edge is the clean edge that has been bound by the manufacturer. The warp runs parallel to this. The weft runs perpendicular to the selvage, and the bias is a diagonal cut. Align sewing pattern arrows to be parallel with the warp to ensure proper fabric stretch and garment fit.
Tip 6: Use Pattern Weights
Hold your sewing pattern down with weights. I use old slate coasters, but you could also use rocks or bean bags. For marking fabric, I use a 4B pencil for light fabrics and chalk for darker fabrics. The chalk line is wider, so I cut inside the line.
Tip 7: Choosing Thread
You primarily have a choice between polyester or cotton thread. I prefer cotton thread for its texture and eco-friendliness. Because my fabric is pre-shrunk before sewing, and my cotton thread isn't, the stitch lines will shrink slightly, adding more texture to the garment (which I love!). If you want no thread shrinkage, use polyester thread. I use Gutermann 100% cotton thread and polyester thread for my serger.
Tip 8: Finish Your Seams
Linen frays a lot, so it will significantly increase the longevity of your garment to finish any exposed seams. I use a serger, but if you don't have one, use a zigzag stitch or you might try a clean finish seam. I do a double fold to completely encase the raw edges on hemlines.
Tip 9: Stay Stitch Necklines
Stay stitch curves like necklines to prevent stretching. Right after cutting out your fabric, run a line of stitching about a quarter inch from the edge of the neckline (at a normal 2.5ish stitch length), backstitching at each end. This will get hidden inside a 1/2" seam allowance, and keeps the fabric from stretching out of shape.
Tip 10: Save Scraps for Mending
Linen is durable, but rips and stains happen! Save some fabric scraps for mending later. Linen is easy to mend and looks great with some patchwork stitching! Check out my other blog post on how to do these three visible mending techniques...
Woo!!
Thanks for sticking around for all ten tips! I wish you tons of good energy on your next sewing project with linen. I LOVE wearing and sewing with linen; it’s a joy to work with. If you're a beginner, don't be intimidated. Linen can be more expensive, so just be sure to make a practice garment first 😉
For soft, plant-dyed linen fabric, check out my fabric shop at Charlie Darwin Textiles!
I also have designed a collection of sewing patterns optimized for sewing with linen!
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Happy sewing!
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